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Kevin McSpadden

Anyone who has enjoyed a mainland period-piece drama knows the significant role cosmetics played in the lives of ancient Chinese elites.
Depictions of legendary historical figures, such as Yang Guifei, one of the “Four Beauties” of ancient China, often showcase them adorned with elaborate make-up.
However, make-up was just as essential to the culture of everyday people.
A Chinese study published in mid-September explored the use of cosmetics among middle-to-upper-class individuals during the Tang dynasty (618-907).

The researchers discovered that for those who could afford it, cosmetics were a vibrant aspect of daily life. The range of products was extensive, their ingredients diverse, and the economic landscape surrounding their production was dynamic.
“Because our culture is consistent, [and features] continuity, cosmetics are a material [representation] of society and culture, so there is no difference between the types of cosmetics in the Tang dynasty and those we have today,” said Wu Meng, the lead author of the study from the Joint International Research Laboratory of Environmental and Social Archaeology at Shandong University.
She told the Post that cosmetics have a long history, with the earliest Chinese beauty products appearing during the Spring and Autumn Period (770-481 BC). This means that by the time the Tang dynasty arrived, cosmetic production had already undergone a millennium of development and refinement.
“The biggest difference is the ingredients,” noted Wu. “In the Tang dynasty, only plants, animals, natural minerals, and a few synthetic inorganic substances could be used as raw materials for cosmetics.”
The researchers analysed tombs of thousands of wealthy non-elites buried in a complex in Xian, the capital of the Tang dynasty. They discovered that Tang-era cosmetics were crafted from materials such as moths, animal fat, vegetable oil, and rosin, among others.

Much like today, animal fat served primarily as a skin moisturising agent. The researchers found that the inclusion of vegetable oil in younger tombs indicated an advancement in cosmetic formulations, as it was added to improve the application of moisturisers.
While it may seem unusual to use animal fat in cosmetics, it remains common today; in fact, most modern collagen treatments are derived from animal sources.
“Human skin automatically secretes fat for moisturisation, and when [our fat] is not enough, we need moisturisers,” said Wu. “Animal fat, which has essentially the same chemical composition as human fat, is the best choice.”
The study also discovered cosmetics made from minerals, such as graphite. The authors wrote that graphite’s “soft texture” could easily be ground into a fine powder, making it a “preferred choice among ancient Chinese for enhancing their eyebrows”.
The researchers also found evidence that the mineral cinnabar was mixed with animal glue to make lipstick.
While the ancient ingredients were far more natural than our modern synthetic cosmetics, they were also unhealthy.
“Thanks to modern science, we have learned about the harmful effects of heavy metal elements such as lead and Mercury on the human body, so production standards strictly limit the amount of heavy metals in modern cosmetics,” said Wu.

Cosmetics were also incredibly important to local culture during the Tang dynasty. Much like today, it became a daily necessity for the middle and upper classes of society, which facilitated a complex industry that included craftspeople, traders and consumers.
Still, Wu said the cosmetics industry was much smaller than our modern version.
“After all, it was still an agrarian society, and the level of productivity and technology was much lower than that of modern times,” she said.
One interesting note is that China has a long history with white-powder cosmetics, and yet the researchers found zero examples of white powder in the hundreds of containers they analysed.
The team hypothesised that the affluent civilians began to accept make-up trends from the ruling class but also simplified their make-up style. That meant they abandoned white make-up but kept using colours such as lipstick and eyebrow powder.


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Chinese history

From animal fat to graphite: how ancient Chinese wore make-up more than 1,000 years ago

Tombs from ancient China reveal insights into the creation of early cosmetics and beauty rituals. Photo: SCMP composite/shenyunperformingarts.org/Sina

Representations of legendary historical figures, like Yang Guifei, far right, one of ancient China’s “Four Beauties”, frequently portray them wearing intricate make-up. Photo: Sohu/小伟说历史

Researchers found that Tang dynasty cosmetics, discovered in tombs of wealthy non-elites in Xian, were made from materials like moths, animal fat, vegetable oil, and rosin. Photo: Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences

The researchers discovered that for those who could afford it in the Tang dynasty, cosmetics were a vibrant aspect of daily life, just as they are today. Photo: Xinhua/Pu Xiaoxu

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Pu sets off on a hike with a huge helium-filled balloon floating above his backpack. Photo: SETN

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News

People & Culture

China cosmetic industry during Tang dynasty was vibrant, featuring impressive diverse options with a wide range of ingredients


China cosmetic industry during Tang dynasty was vibrant, featuring impressive diverse options with a wide range of ingredients.


Beauty