SIHH 2018: Vacheron Constantin provides an entrée for a younger clientele with its FiftySix collection

The year 1956 was a good one. My Fair Lady opened on Broadway and Elvis had his first hit. IBM came up with the first hard disk and the polio vaccine was created. In 1956, Vacheron Constantin broke new 
ground in watch design with reference 6073, demonstrating that bold creativity could combine beautifully with traditional classicism. 

This year is another good year for Vacheron Constantin and its many adherents. SIHH 2018 saw the introduction of FiftySix, a collection that salutes reference 6073. This collection could well be the entrée into the brand for a younger clientele who may have found the image of the oldest of Geneva’s watchmakers a little intimidating. 

CEO Louis Ferla acknowledges that Vacheron Constantin has always been a “maison for connoisseurs”. Just one year into the job, Ferla says: “We needed a collection which was a little bit younger and this is what we are doing with the FiftySix. We propose more ‘mid-complication’ in the day-date with power reserve indicator both in steel and in gold, and the complete calendar also in steel or gold. We have one three-hand reference which is a little simpler, but they all have a lot 
of value.” 

This “simpler” model has hours, minutes, central seconds, date aperture with stop-seconds and the highest level of finishing with very fine detail.

The influence of the Maltese Cross, symbol of Vacheron Constantin, is subtle but unmistakeable. The lugs of the case are inspired by the branches of the Cross. The open-work oscillating weight in polished and satin-brushed 22ct gold has a Maltese Cross applique and a frosted-snailed finish.

In a number of ways, this is a collection of firsts, in addition to the oscillating weight created for the collection. The crystal, which stands well proud of the bezel, is sapphire; the self-winding movement, the choice of gold or steel, the 1950s-style sector-type dial are all innovations. 

“We agreed with our partners, our clients and our team that we need to create for every collection one entry door where we can share the passion, to create one reference allowing people to enter the world of Vacheron Constantin.”

That world is still the world of haute horlogerie, magnificently exemplified by Les Métiers d’Art, creations which are full of wonder. 

The newest collection is a tribute to the gravity-defying aérostiers, hot-air balloonists of the late 18th century. In Les Aérostiers collection, each of the five models is dedicated to a flight taken between 1783 and 1785.