SIHH 2018: Montblanc takes its time to become a major player as a watchmaker
Montblanc’s 1858 collection stands out for its design, innovation and reasonable prices
Once better known for its writing instruments and leather goods, Montblanc has positioned itself as an increasingly serious player in the haute horlogerie world, thanks in no small measure to its former CEO Jérôme Lambert.
During his four-year tenure, Lambert – who was promoted to chief operating officer of Richemont group last year – made several important changes, including introducing more coherent storylines to Montblanc’s collections and launching contemporary partnerships with designers
and celebrities.
Tellingly, he upgraded the more accessible timepieces produced at Montblanc’s own Le Locle workshops with more sophisticated movements from the brand’s Villeret (formerly Minerva) high-end manufacture by merging the talents of the two.
Now it’s my job to re-simplify and consolidate in the sense of making [our collections] easier for our customers to understand
The task of taking these initial successes forward has fallen on the shoulders of Lambert’s appointed successor, Nicolas Baretzki, who unveiled some surprises of his own at this
year’s SIHH.
“Jerome’s era was completely re-showing the legitimacy of watchmaking at Montblanc, creating amazing expansion, innovation, creativity. Now it’s my job to re-simplify and consolidate in the sense of making [our collections] easier for our customers to understand,” Baretzki says.
“Now we will only concentrate on six lines: two sports collections, which are the 1858 and the Timewalker, and four classic lines, which includes the [women’s collection] Bohème, which is clearer; it will always be in the same approach. And, there will always be that one piece for every collection that will offer the best value for the customer – the one they would pick if they could only get one watch.”
Montblanc introduced three new collections at SIHH this year: the 1858 anniversary novelties, the classic Star Legacy line and the TimeWalker collection. Serious watch aficionados naturally will be looking to the Star Legacy timepieces, led by the Suspended Exo Tourbillon.
With a limited edition of 58 pieces, this took more than three years of development at Minerva. The large balance wheel with screws is positioned outside the tourbillon’s rotating cage (hence the name Exo, meaning outside) and eliminates the need for a bigger case to house the MB M16.68 movement. The 18ct red gold case is 44.5mm with a height of 15.03mm. The watch comes in a limited edition of 28 pieces with 54 baguette diamonds set on the case.