Why Breitling, Audemars Piguet, Chopard and others can’t resist flirting with the past

Earlier this year, Audemars Piguet released the new collection Code 11.59, which at first glance seemed to be a completely new direction for the brand that first took on the art of watchmaking back in 1875.

But Code 11.59 is actually flirting a little bit with Audemars Piguet’s heritage – especially with the 1970s, the era of the Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta. This was the first luxury steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet, and it featured an octagonal bezel held in place with eye-catching hexagonal screws.

Look at the Code 11.59, and you realise that this octagonal design has been applied on the case band – even though the cases are made of gold this time. The hexagonal screws from yesteryear are now in the spring bar position, holding the band in place.

As for the rest, the devil is in the details. The sapphire glass is double curved – domed on the inside and vertically curved outside. The logo is made of thin layers of gold, as are the applied indexes. And the new collection is produced with a plethora of complications ranging from time-only to tourbillons and minute repeaters.

Meanwhile, the eighties are back, and the watch industry is putting its own spin on the fashion trend.

In September 2019, Chopard released the new Alpine Eagle collection, inspired by a bestselling watch from 1980. Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele remains involved with the design through his son Karl-Fritz, just as he was when Iron Maiden released its eponymous album, a milestone on the heavy metal scene.

But the Alpine Eagle is not made of any old metal. Enter the new alloy Lucent Steel A223. This has improved hardness 50 per cent compared with 316L, the watch industry’s normal steel and enhanced light-reflecting qualities close to those of white gold.