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SIHH 2019: For A. Lange & Söhne, trends don’t mark the moment: ‘we’d rather look to our DNA’

The beautiful dial details of A. Lange & Söhne's Langematic Perpetual Honeygold
The beautiful dial details of A. Lange & Söhne's Langematic Perpetual Honeygold
SIHH

  • Brand doesn’t try to be trendy, preferring to look to its DNA

“For 25 years, Lange 1 has been our bestseller – that’s how strong the design is. How many watches, how many products even, can survive 25 years of massive change and still be admired? It is our job to create watches like this.”

A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid is in no doubt that strength lies in history. “We do not look too much to trends; we’d rather look to our DNA, what we stand for. Of course we push the boundaries, like with the Zeitwerk, where we broke the mould and today it is a whole family. For the 25th anniversary of the Lange 1, we looked very much back to the original when we had no indices but it was printed on.”

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The brand includes a large number of collectors among its clients and it is a safe bet that the 250 anniversary pieces have all been earmarked.

LANGE 1 25th Anniversary edition from A. Lange & Söhne
LANGE 1 25th Anniversary edition from A. Lange & Söhne

In white gold with a silver dial, the watch uses blue accents to great effect. Even the balance cock, seen when the half hunter case is opened, is blue and hand-engraved.

“After hand-engraving it will get the same treatment that our moon discs get, that blue, then we clean the surface again so that the colour will stay where the engraving went into the metal. That is a very new thing – we’ve never done that before – and it is really quite spectacular,” Schmid says. The number 25 is prominent.

For 25 years, Lange 1 has been our bestseller – that’s how strong the design is

“The case is hand-engraved too,” he adds. “It shows the Lange building and for the first time we honour the two people who laid down the foundation for today’s success, Walter Lange and Gunther Blumlein. Those names are engraved on that and that is something really special.”

He continues, “It is not just the execution. There are a lot of ideas that went into it and from what I’ve heard so far the collectors really appreciate it.”

Another limited edition which will have collectors keen is the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, a flyback chronograph which features Lange’s signature large date indication. This is a movement which boast 729 parts and the transparent case back is an impressive sight, including as it does the one-minute tourbillon.