SIHH 2019: Baume et Mercier take the Baumatic range further – and keep value in the cross-hairs

This year sees several extensions of the Clifton Baumatic, which made quite a splash when it arrived last year. With chronometer precision, five-day power reserve and anti-magnetism starting at just over €2,000 (HK$17,770), this collection is democratising functions that often belong in a higher echelon of horology.

In the first decade of the new millennium, several brands turned away from this segment. “But today it is really tough; you have to offer a higher perceived value than before. How? By having 120 hours of power reserve, accuracy, precision, antimagnetic properties, straps or bracelets that are interchangeable without tools, a crystal case back,” says Geoffroy Lefebvre, CEO of Baume et Mercier since June 2018.

The Baumatic received in 2018 not only press accolades, but also commercial success – even in markets which tend to be difficult, such as Japan.

In 2019, the news in the basic core collection is a blue gradient dial, and like with previous models it is available in two versions – one with a COSC-certified movement, and one without. This may come across as somewhat confusing, as it is the same movement, and the same watches, with a price difference of 200 euros. But to Lefebvre, it is about meeting the demands of different markets. Some markets are price-sensitive. Others are more technical and ask for the certification. And some are attracted to the COSC for aesthetic reasons – they like the cross-hairs design on the dial we use to show that a COSC-certified movement is ticking inside the watch.

One of the talking points at SIHH was, however, the proof of the base movement being extremely suitable for modular complications; for instance, a perpetual calendar. An offer of around €22,500 for a perpetual calendar is, of course, a lot of watch for the money – but still an astronomical sum for clients shopping in the core segment under €4,000. But again, it is part of a strategy. The perpetual calendar shows two things: that we can do high complications, and that the Clifton Baumatic collection is an amazing playground in design.