Luxury watch brands switch focus to entry-level novelties and women’s timepieces at SIHH 2017

This year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) was the biggest ever after the Geneva showcase watch fair threw open its doors to 17 main exhibitors, in addition to 13 independents for the Carré des Horlogers section and paying members of the public on the final day.

Despite the depressed retail market over the past two years, the mood was reasonably upbeat with some brands claiming sales of timepieces worth more than HK$1 million on the first day. The large number of brands made for greater vibrancy on the floor despite a more streamlined cache of media and retailers for the first few days.

The market is probably starting to see the effects of the downturn in terms of novelties, with more brands introducing entry-level novelties and many more aiming for the previously neglected women’s segment.

Jaeger-LeCoultre continued its feminine interpretation of the Rendez-Vous and Cartier unveiled the Panthère de Cartier collection. Audemars Piguet showed off its Royal Oak Frosted Gold, while other manufactures softened their more masculine cuts with colourful and easily interchangeable leather straps.

Even the “Engineered for Men” IWC Schaffhausen revealed two Da Vinci models for the ladies: the Da Vinci Automatic 36 and the Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36,
while A. Lange & Söhne introduced its 36.8mm Little Lange 1 Moon Phase.

“We are also re-establishing an old tradition of creating selected models from the Da Vinci line specially for women and adding diamonds or fashionable straps and bracelets as features,” says IWC’s outgoing CEO Georges Kern, who will take over as head of watchmaking, marketing and digital of the Richemont Group.

Despite more sober entry-level novelties, there was no lack of innovation this year.

The star of the show was Vacheron Constantin’s
Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, featuring 23 complications and took five years to develop from scratch by one dedicated master watchmaker.

“Everybody is more realistic but yet still very ambitious,” says salon veteran Noel Wong, deputy CEO of Elegant Watches. “The economic downturn has had an impact on product development, price points and even target markets.

“The bloom of new materials, ladies collections and entry
level watches shows the aggressiveness of brands to seize market share.”

Until last year, exhibitors at the invitation-only show mainly comprised brands within the Richemont Group, with the inclusion of others such as Audemars Piguet, Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille. Girard-Perregaux returned
to the Hall after four years at Baselworld, and the Geneva show this year also welcomed newcomer Ulysse Nardin and five new independent watchmakers.