Independent watchmakers show their whimsical side at SIHH
From Swiss cheese to jellyfish and skulls, the independents never fail to disappoint when it comes to taking a more daring approach to horology
The number of independent brands to join the Carré des Horlogers family at SIHH increased this year, jumping from eight to 13. The five newest members are Grönefeld, Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (MCT), Ressence, Romain Jerome and Speake-Marin.
Independent brands are generally perceived to be freer to make more daring choices with their approach to horology, and the presentations during SIHH cemented that belief.
An example of creative watchmaking was demonstrated this year by H. Moser & Cie. The brand presented a range of beautiful watches, including the Heritage Tourbillon and the Swiss Alp Watch Minute Retrograde, the latter of which featured a movement created by Hautlence, its sister brand. However, it was H. Moser & Cie’s “Swiss Mad” watch, boasting a case made out of real Swiss cheese and straps out of cowhide, that stole the spotlight. The timepiece is priced at 1,081,291 Swiss francs (HK$8.33 million), refering to the date the Swiss Federal Charter was signed, on August 1, 1291.
The watch is the brand’s way of protesting the decision to allow only timepieces with 60 per cent or more Swiss-made components to be eligible for the Swiss-made label. The brand argues that this is not exclusive enough, citing that over 95 per cent of H. Moser & Cie’s components are Swiss made.
Another playful watch was the Maestro from Christophe Claret, available in a grade 5 titanium version with blue accents, and a 5N pink gold version with red accents. Both versions are limited to 88 pieces.
A little whimsical function, dubbed MEMO, is located between 3 and 4 o’clock. The cone-shaped display function is a nod to the time-honoured practice of tying a knot in a handkerchief as a way of remembering to do something.
A pusher at 2 o’clock swivels the cone round to display either a diamond or a blue or red triangle at the front – depending on whether the wearer is setting or resetting the function – to remind the wearer of a task.
Another watch that made the rounds on social media was the Horological Machine No. 7 Aquapod from MB&F, a brand best-known for producing wildly fantastical creations. Inspired by the jellyfish, the watch mimics the aquatic creature’s appearance, as well as its ability to glow in the dark. Its long winding rotor, crafted from a solid block of titanium, is reminiscent of a jellyfish’s tentacles.
