Ulysse Nardin reveals more affordable timepieces at SIHH, targeting younger clients

Ulysse Nardin swapped the madding crowds of Baselworld for the relative calm of SIHH this year, exhibiting at the Geneva fair for the first time.

The watchmaker tested the waters with its new audience with novelties that consolidate its house style and highlight its know-how, and revealed timepieces with more affordable price points – a strategy other brands are undertaking to appeal to younger clients.

The new Classico Manufacture, for example, lives up to its name with a classic 40mm case in stainless steel that makes it easier on the wallet. This is countered by a Grande Feu enamel dial, produced in-house following Ulysse Nardin’s acquisition of enamel specialists Donzé Cadrans three years ago; and judging by the number of enamel dials at SIHH, we can expect to see them feature prominently in the future.

Grand Feu is a 17th century craft where layers of enamel are applied to gold and fired at extreme temperatures to achieve a high shine – in the case of the Classico Manufacture, in Ulysse Nardin’s trademark blue.

Technical prowess peeps through a date window that can be set forwards or back, a rare achievement for a mechanical watch. The mechanism is powered by an automatic calibre UN-320, also featuring the silicium hairspring pioneered by Ulysse Nardin that improves precision and durability of the movement.

The new Marine Regatta tests the waters in a more literal sense. Ulysse Nardin’s association with sea faring activities goes back almost as far as its origins, and as the official partner of the Artemis Racing team for the 35th America’s Cup it collaborated with yachtsmen from the team for this model.

One of the key features is a new calibre UN-155 with a patent-pending, bi-directional countdown timer. The feature allows for a sweep countdown that can be set from one to 10 minutes, enabling competitors to countdown the critical minutes before a race begins.

The movement is based on the chronograph UN-153, but with an inverter that allows the central seconds hand to turn clockwise or counterclockwise to track the countdown; once complete, it automatically begins the running time without any manual prompt. The countdown arrow points to a yellow minute scale, and the hours and minutes are measured through a subdial at 6 o’clock.

A 44mm stainless steel case gives the Marine Regatta a sturdy sea base, while the fluted bezel and rubber inserts, and dials in ocean blue and Artemis Racing yellow or “sea foam” white lacquer, give the theme order.

There is also a limited edition set of 35 pieces with black enamel Champlevé dials and a countdown on the bezel in the Swedish team’s yellow and anthracite grey.