SIHH 2019: Parmigiani Fleurier gives craftsmen free rein to work their magic

It is fascinating to see centuries of horological history at the heart of a contemporary watchmaker whose eponymous founder continues to preach the gospel of the good old-fashioned hand craftsmanship of traditional watchmaking.

Michael Parmigiani, the founder and name behind Parmigiani Fleurier, is a firm believer in the power of the human touch. His watchmaking background is rooted in restoration; in fact, he is one of the most celebrated and sought-after antique timepiece restoration experts in the world.

He has come to appreciate the importance of touching and feeling what is being made but that does not make him a naysayer of modern technology.

“The hand should be used when the results are better than those of machines. But where the machine does a better job, why not use the technology?”

Details such as guilloche found on the new dials of the brand’s flagship collection, the Toric, for example, is one craft that benefits from the warmth and emotion of a craftsman.

Parmigiani is a master at drawing on tradition, and it works to the collection’s advantage. “When we look to the past, it can be a way to see the present and the future. How do we take something like old engraving techniques from the 19th century to create the right balance to please the eye today?”

The new Toric Chronomètre Slate with its grey dial hits the high notes with the execution of a hand-turned guilloche dial. Parmigiani loves the pattern of guilloche. “The decoration is so captivating because it is based on the Golden Ratio. Within it, you see Fibonacci’s spirals, reproducing a harmony that is everywhere in nature.” This year’s three Toric references are all blessed with guilloche dials said to evoke the spirals and pattern of a pine cone.