Milan Fashion Week: What were Golden Globe-winning actors Taron Egerton and Stellan Skarsgård doing at the Armani show last week?

Milan designers continued their exploration of the shifting roles and representations of men in changing times.

The design language during Milan Fashion Week veered from androgyny to genderless to hybrid – but always against a backdrop of unmistakable masculinity, just enough elements to turn the feminine heat up or down. The overall trend was toward more formality, but that can be broadly defined and not just as suits. In fact, business suits with ties were few and far between on Milan runways, while jackets took on an array of shapes beyond the traditional notched lapel or double-breasted looks.

In the celebrity role call, Golden Globe-winning actors Taron Egerton and Stellan Skarsgård sat front row at Armani, and Jude Law’s daughter, Iris, and Australian singer Cody Simpson attended Fendi.

Highlights of the shows during Milan Fashion Week previewed mostly menswear looks for Fall/Winter 2020-21:

Fendi hits hybrid note

Silvia Venturini Fendi presented a rich collection for the family-run fashion house that subtly blurred gender lines, without ever abandoning a masculine silhouette. The collection hit just the right note in the conversation of what men’s dressing can be today.

The art lay foremost in the overcoats, which were tailored in three lengths that zipped on and off, depending on the mood or weather. The coats appeared in three-tone fur or wool, changing with each removable panel. In their most cropped version, the coats swung sensually like short capes with shortened sleeves that could be layered over a V-neck ribbed jumper and high-waist jersey grey trousers.

Men’s suits featured slightly larger lapels, and were paired with knitwear, including soft jumpers with generous polo necks that could be pulled over the head for extra protection against the elements. Knickerbockers sometimes substituted trousers.