5 most impressive perpetual calendar watches for a leap year: haute horology from Bulgari, A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Glashütte Original and H. Moser & Cie on February 29, 2024

Feb 29 , 2024

Five perpetual calendar timepieces as we welcome the extra day of the leap year on February 29, from the likes of IWC, Bulgari and Glashütte. Photos: Handout

Some horology enthusiasts would argue that ultra-complicated timepieces are frivolous – particularly the perpetual calendar function, which is only useful for leap years

Regardless of your stance, the craftsmanship and design of these watches is sure to impress – including Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo, possibly the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar watch

Ultra-complicated timepieces can sometimes seem to have functions that are at best frivolous, and at worst redundant thanks to modern technology.

However, for those who are passionate about watches and understand the intricacies of fine watchmaking, complicated movements and mechanisms are about much more than practicality. Not only are they often beautiful to look at, they also represent the refinement and craftsmanship that comes with slowness – something of a lost art in the modern day, when most rely on the clock on their phones.

Certain functions are practical too, though. Alarms, minute repeaters or even tourbillons can come in handy throughout the day. However, the perpetual calendar is an entirely different story. It is only useful once every four years – on February 29. And yet the leap year function remains one of the most advanced complications in the watchmaking world.

Today, on February 29, we look at several perpetual calendar timepieces that offer unique expressions of counting the days – four years at a time.

1. Bulgari

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Haute Horlogerie “features a mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding, hour, minutes, retrograde date, day, month and retrograde leap year”, according to its website

Combining a range of complex watchmaking know-how, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Haute Horlogerie might just be the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar watch.

The contemporary octagonal silhouette of the piece in platinum is extra impactful thanks to its elegant profile. At 5.80mm thick, the watch not only features the indication of the day, date, month and leap year, but also does so all with a retrograde mechanism. The calendar indicators and time are symmetrically laid out across the blue lacquered dial.

2. A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange One Perpetual Calendar also features a moon phase

Along with the perpetual calendar function, A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange One Perpetual Calendar features a moon phase at 7 o’clock, sharing a sub-dial with the second hand. The off-centred dial that’s a signature of the watchmaker comes into play too – a peripheral month ring circles the dial, minimising the dial’s elements overall. The signature large date and the hour and minute sub-dial at 11 o’clock and 3 o’clock sit alongside the retrograde date arch along the left of the dial and the leap year aperture at the bottom.