High jewellery in 2024: the trends, products and predictions you should know – from classy pearls by Van Cleef & Arpels to maximalist Tiffany & Co. cuffs and glamorous Harry Winston cocktail rings

Jan 1 , 2024

Van Cleef & Arpels Le Grand Tour collection, Dea Eterna Clip

Van Cleef & Arpels is combining pearls with pink and blue sapphires, lapis lazuli and diamonds, while pearl drop earrings from Annoushka Ducas were worn by Kate Middleton

Sculptural cuffs come courtesy of Tiffany & Co. and Boucheron, beaded jewellery makes a comeback via Anna Hu ‘pigeon’s blood’ rubies, while Harry Winston and Chaumet offer maximalist cocktail rings

In recent times, high jewellery designs have been driven by a growing desire for downplayed luxury – illusive “if you know, you know” pieces that pair well with wardrobe staples. This low-key approach to accessorising has been gaining traction for years, fuelled by demands for a more pared-down aesthetic that better represents the times we live in.

From the signature toile brossée fabric that comfortably secures Cartier’s Baignoire on the wrist, to Tiffany & Co.’s sleek and sophisticated T bracelets that are decorated with dustings of diamonds, such pieces offer wearers an elevated take on everyday chic. And in 2023, this preference for understated style and high-end craftsmanship is reaching new heights.

Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2023 Out of the Blue High shell earrings

There’s no getting away from pearls. Enduring and versatile, these organic gems stand the test of time, whether you’re shopping for everyday essentials or that statement sparkler ahead of party season. Le Grand Tour Diana necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, for example, can be styled in multiple ways thanks to an imaginative, detachable design that showcases an extraordinary level of expertise. Elsewhere in Van Cleef’s newest collection, the Dea Eterna clip combines grey cultured pearls with a spectacular selection of pink and blue sapphires, lapis lazuli and diamonds. Meanwhile, ethereal white natural pearls embellish an explosion of verdant-green emeralds set to chunky chain links on the impressive Perla di Angelo necklace.

Annoushka Ducas has long incorporated South Sea pearls into her highly sought-after charm bracelets. Her Eclipse hoop earrings, which can be ramped up using detachable freshwater pearl drops, have even been worn by Catherine, Princess of Wales.

“I love working with pearls of all different shapes and sizes, and constantly aim to surprise and delight by using traditional gems in unexpected ways,” says the designer.

Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2023 Out of the Blue High Pisces pendant

Sculpted from 18k yellow gold, Ducas’ Pea Pod charm, which delicately dangles from a diamond-drenched bail clasp, is especially heartwarming. “It’s one of my favourite designs,” she says. “Four freshwater pearls are encased in a pavé pea pod and each gem represents one of my four children.”

Cuff bracelets are having a moment, with oversized bangles surpassing dainty, skinny chains as this season’s go-to wrist armour. “Extreme cuffs and big bangles are great because they’re so fun and easy to play with,” says Bulgari’s creative director, Lucia Silvestri, who also heads up gem buying for the Italian fashion house. “Make sure to mix and match with different colours, collections and brands. It’s a great way to express your own unique personality.”