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What do Princess Diana and Kendall Jenner have in common? Chokers – how neck jewellery evolved, from ancient Egypt and the Vikings to Anne Boleyn, British royals and fashion runways of the 21st century
STORYAnnie Darling
- The spring/summer 2024 fashion runaways saw chokers everywhere – from Christian Dior to Vivienne Westwood – on models including Kendall Jenner, while Chopard favours neck jewellery in its latest Red Carpet collection
- Bonhams observes a shift towards chokers, with neck jewellery increasingly being worn by men – from Boucheron’s Nature Triomphante Flèche in white gold to Mikimoto’s string of Akoya cultured pearls
Unexpected pairings, cinched waists and exaggerated silhouettes dominated the spring/summer 2024 collections unveiled this autumn, often accompanied by a muted colour palette that combines olive with caramel and butter yellow with cherry red. Impeccably tailored trouser suits triumphed at Saint Laurent, while cut-out party dresses delighted at Valentino.
The tone was set back in June, when Jacquemus presented a sophisticated selection of all-white during a jam-packed showcase at Versailles. The coterie of A-listers in attendance included Italian actor Monica Bellucci, new-gen supermodel Emily Ratajkowski, and David and Victoria Beckham, all of who journeyed to Paris’ 17th century palace to watch Kendall Jenner walk the runway in an off-the-shoulder, cloudlike romper. But perhaps most arresting was the seven-strand pearl choker fastened around her neck, anchored by a spectacular sapphire bordered by diamonds.
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Choker necklaces, it turns out, are everywhere: from Anita Ko’s textural collar and Vivienne Westwood’s spiked black band to Christian Dior’s gothic interpretation of the zodiac.
Since bursting onto the fashion scene in a riot of crushed velvet, whimsical lace and faux leather, chokers have been recognised as the countercultural statement of the 90s. And now they’ve made their way into the hallowed halls of haute joaillerie – and onto the cobbled stone streets of Place Vendôme.
“Historically, the choker hasn’t been the style of choice for the Asian market,” says Stewart Young, Bonhams’ director of jewellery and head of jewellery for Asia. “That being said, recent fashion trends have seen a shift in favour of chokers and this is mainly being driven by male consumers who are increasingly more comfortable wearing bolder jewellery.”
Jewellery is a form of self-expression and, ever since the birth of menswear fashion weeks several years ago, trendsetting gents have experimented beyond the customary wedding band. Numerous Chinese celebrities, including singers Kris Wu and Luhan, sport earrings, while BTS band member V (real name: Kim Tae-hyung) was appointed ambassador for Cartier in July.
“More men than ever are wearing statement jewels,” says Young. “So it makes sense that more men are wearing necklaces and that this is contributing to a new cultural wave of chokers.”
From Boucheron’s Nature Triomphante Flèche in white gold to Mikimoto’s string of Akoya cultured pearls, neck jewellery is increasingly being worn by men.
