On with the show: Paris Haute Couture Week day 1 round up – while LVMH’s Celine opted out due to the French riots, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry went ahead and wowed
- Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri showcased all that was feminine and divine on her classics-inspired catwalk, with tunics and Renaissance sleeves that had a modern heartbeat
- And while Baz Luhrmann and Celine’s Hedi Slimane noted the dissonance of Haute Couture Week against a backdrop of rioting and discontent in France, others pushed ahead
In the lush surroundings of Paris’ Musee Rodin, the landscapes of artist Marta Roberti formed the backdrop on Monday for the latest Dior couture collection by designer Maria Grazia Chiuri.
The designs, inspired by power, feminism and the divine, shone against Roberti’s fantastical creations of exotic birds and ethereal trees. Actors Natalie Portman and Rosamund Pike were among VIP attendees captivated by the fusion of these imaginative realms of threads and thoughts.
Here’s a look at some highlights from Monday’s autumn-winter 2023 collections:
Divine goddesses of Dior strut amid birds and trees
The collection by Chiuri drew its strength from the past, a salute to timelessness. A crepe cape with long, draping sleeves set the classical tone, with the gathered plaits of the models’ hair a throwback to times past. Subtle and understated, the adornments of pearl or gold earrings added a quiet elegance, while tunic shapes and classical banding played up the nostalgic silhouettes, all marked by loose proportions and understated charm.
Yet, this was no mere repeat of history. The shimmer and sparkle lent the collection a vibrant, modern heartbeat. The restrained sophistication was occasionally punctuated with Renaissance sleeves – a Chiuri signature from her time at Valentino – bridging past and present. And amid the classical musings, a white apron-shirt, pristine and fresh, broke the ethereal continuity, presenting a fashion-forward mix.
Roberti’s goddess-inspired works of art lining the walls breathed life into the runway, transforming it into a modern pantheon where models, resembling exquisite deities, seemed to float by. The sculpted jackets and coats, folded beneath the chest, along with the serene palette of white, beige, silver, and pale gold, all mirrored classical statues and columns.
