Why watch brands should focus on one collection – from the Tag Heuer Carrera, IWC Ingenieur and Tudor Black Bay to the Panerai Radiomir and A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus, shown at Watches and Wonders 2023

May 1 , 2023

One way to capture attention in an overcrowded watch market is to focus on iconic collections, such as Tudor does with its Black Bay. Photo: Tudor

Swiss watch expert Alexander Friedman of AF. Luxury Consulting and Pascal Ravessoud of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie cite the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda as a good example

Rolex, on the other hand, showed new models from many collections including a platinum Cosmograph Daytona, a Puzzle Day-Date with emojis and a titanium Yacht-Master 42

“If brands focus on one collection they get more visibility, especially in the digital arena – one of the best examples being Parmigiani [Fleurier],” says Swiss watch expert Alexander Friedman, founder of AF. Luxury Consulting.

Ever since its inception in 1996, Parmigiani has been revered for its watchmaking capabilities, but scattered offerings in the brand’s early days made it difficult for collectors to fully grasp the brand. Fast forward to 2021, when then-new CEO Guido Terreni decided to focus on the Tonda PF collection – elegant and understated timepieces with a full range of complications, presented in a case with fluted bezel and integrated steel bracelets.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Xiali Calendar. Photo: Parmigiani Fleurier

“Today, Parmigiani is all about Tonda,” Friedman explains, “and it makes sense – now clients understand the brand. It is appealing, it is a full collection, and the road ahead has a clear vision and strategy, which is reassuring for clients, retailers and distributors.”

Pascal Ravessoud, vice-president of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which promotes watchmaking culture, agrees: “Parmigiani really nailed it, it has really made an echo in the market. Now people and collectors are talking about Parmigiani much more than before – and it is also at the forefront of sales, there are now long waiting lines for many Tonda PF models.”

Ravessoud referenced a couple of creative Tonda PF examples presented at Watches and Wonders 2023: the Minute Rattrapante and the platinum trilogy set with three calendar watches referencing different timekeeping traditions: the traditional Chinese-influenced Xiali Calendar, the Islamic lunar Hijri Perpetual Calendar and the Gregorian Calendar.

Focusing attention

Panerai Radiomir California. Photo: Panerai

This single-collection focus manifested by – for instance – the Tag Heuer Carrera, Panerai Radiomir, A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus, Baume et Mercier Riviera, Tudor Black Bay, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and IWC Ingenieur is only enhanced by social media.

“Our attention span is decreasing because of social media,” Ravessoud declares. “Therefore, too many different collections blur the message. But with one precise line, the brand has more chance to stand out, and clients can keep the products in mind.”

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph. Photo: A. Lange & Söhne

At Watches and Wonders, A. Lange & Söhne took the single concept further than any other brand. They presented one single watch in a limited edition of 100 pieces: the Odysseus chronograph in steel with an eye-catching red chronograph second-hand made of anodised aluminium. As per usual from the German brand, the steel case houses an exquisite movement with 516 components, most of them hand finished.