Inside Matthew Williams’ first Givenchy menswear show at Paris Men’s Fashion Week: his spring/summer 2023 collection channelled NYC street style – but was it high fashion enough for the runway?

Jun 24 , 2022

Models present creations by designer Matthew Williams as part of his spring/summer 2023 collection show for fashion house Givenchy during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris, France, on June 22. Photo: Reuters

The American fashion designer, formerly a collaborator of Kanye West and Lady Gaga, drew inspiration from Jamaican Reggae singer Alkaline to create urban, more ‘real’ looks

A far cry from Audrey Hepburn’s Givenchy, the collection featured hot pink sweatsuits with gold chains, bare chests with face masks, and bomber jackets with laser-cut logos

For the first major collection of Paris Fashion Week’s menswear season, Givenchy’s models walked on water.

A giant font filled with milky-white water and frothing mist in the courtyard of the École Militaire served as a fluid runway where models, often bare-chested and in waterproof footwear, stomped and splashed toward a blinding set light.

Models were bare-chested and walked along a water-filled runway to show Givenchy’s menswear spring/summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 22. Photo: AFP

Matthew M. Williams clearly wanted to make a splash in his first stand-alone menswear show since being appointed in 2020. But did the American designer dive deep enough?

American fashion designer Matthew Williams clearly wanted to make a splash for Givenchy’s menswear spring/summer 2023 show, as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 22. Photo: AFP

This was the high-fashion Givenchy of Audrey Hepburn in name only. Williams’ vision is urban, sports-infused and pared down.

The American designer, the former collaborator of Lady Gaga and Kanye West, brought his streetwear vibe again to the haute Paris runway. The muse this season was the style of Jamaican Reggae singer Alkaline, who worked on the show soundtrack.

Givenchy’s menswear spring/summer 2023 collection, shown as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 22, is urban, sports-infused and pared-down. Photo: AFP

Matthew Williams drew inspiration from the style of Jamaican Reggae singer Alkaline to create Givenchy’s menswear spring/summer 2023 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 22. Photo: AFP

These looks were defined by long and loose silhouettes, frayed hems, thick chains and fearsome face masks.