Milan Men’s Fashion Week: Prada blended grunge with nostalgia for spring/summer 2023, with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons creating suits, sleeveless short sets and trenches for the season

Jun 21 , 2022

A model wears a creation featuring colour-blocking as part of the Prada men’s spring/summer 2023 collection presented in Milan, Italy, on June 19. Photo: AP Photo

The Prada-Simons collaboration continues to be a hit, with the luxury brand’s most recent collection featuring lapel-less suits, skinny trousers and nostalgic gingham

Oversized bags evoked childhood while knits and leather prompted plenty of questions, as celebrities such as Jake Gyllenhaal, Jeff Goldblum and Rami Malek hung out backstage

The Miuccia Prada-Raf Simons collaboration at Prada has been a proven success, generating recognisable pieces that grab attention and brand recognition from a distance. That is quite a feat for co-creators who joined forces just as the pandemic put the globe on lockdown, and which hasn’t quite loosened its grip.

Designers Miuccia Prada (left) and Raf Simons appear on the catwalk during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, on June 19. Photo: EPA-EFE

Suits were not the only ensembles on show at Prada’s men’s spring/summer 2023 collection presented in Milan, Italy, on June 19. Photo: AP Photo

The silhouette for next spring and summer is studied and refined, another easy read. It started with lapel-less suits with hidden buttons, tapered skinny trousers down to pointy boots. The pair introduced boyish notes with striped ribbed or colour-block knitwear. Oversized bags contributed to a sense of childhood, playing with grown-ups’ things, while models walked through a paper mock-up of an out-of-scale house.

Skinny trousers and pops of colour featured in Prada’s spring/summer 2023 menswear collection presented during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 19 June 2022. Photo: EPA-EFE

An all-denim look with boots at Prada’s spring/summer 2023 menswear collection presented during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, on June 19; the Milano Moda Uomo displays spring/summer 2023 collections and runs from June 17-21. Photo: EPA-EFE

Nostalgia came in the form of oversized gingham, recalling a kitchen tablecloth, traditionally a woman’s domain, in play against leather grunge: sleeveless short sets, and trenches, sometimes with a gingham trench layered in between.

A trench coat and shorts combo at Prada’s spring/summer 2023 menswear collection during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, on June 19. Photo: EPA-EFE

Leather in summer? A model wears a creation as part of the Prada men’s spring/summer 2023 collection presented in Milan, Italy, on June 19. Photo: AP Photo