How to build a wardrobe of classic, timeless essentials: women covet Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana and The Row, which define quiet luxury today

Oct 10 , 2024

Khaite at Mytheresa is one of the smaller brands joining the likes of Brunello Cucinelli in offering high quality classic pieces made to last. Photos: Handout

Tastemakers like Richard Johnson at Mytheresa and Lupe Puerta at shopping engine The Floorr give their takes on what has fuelled the rise of names like Wardrobe.NYC, Peter Do and Khaite

The terms “stealth wealth” and “quiet luxury” may have been doing the rounds for a while, but in practice, investing in quality timeless pieces has always been the smarter way. Style icons and fashion insiders have long been proponents of investing in “seasonless” wardrobe staples made to last, but now that mindset is moving into the mainstream as women in particular reassess their purchasing power.

“During times of dramatic change, people often look for longevity from their purchases and want to know that the items they invest in will stand the test of time. There’s now a collective sense that style and taste are more embedded in the quality of fabrics and the cut of garments rather than surface decoration or logos,” explains Richard Johnson, chief commercial and sustainability officer at luxury online retailer Mytheresa.

While the stealth luxury category is dominated by established names like Loro Piana, The Row and Brunello Cucinelli, the market for “wardrobe staples” has grown steadily, drawing more brands to cater to the growing demand. Favourites like Tibi and Wardrobe.NYC are being joined by newer names that are reinterpreting a specific wardrobe item to set them apart (such as Blazé and Racil, which focus on tailored jackets), while others offer a more extensive range of elevated pieces for every day.

“These brands are creating the new basics for the early Gen Z and late millennials. They are bringing back essentials with a point of view, reinventing the trend for the generation that really cares about the #IYKYK [if you know you know] idea, but paired up with recognisable accessories, bags and shoes,” says Lupe Puerta, founder and CEO of personal shopping engine The Floorr.

One name generating plenty of buzz is Amsterdam-based label Róhe, which embraces a philosophy of “elevated minimalism”, according to founder Marieke Meulendijks. Expect clean silhouettes such as sleeveless vests, wide-legged trousers and skirts made from luxe fabrics, finished with intricate details like raw seams and asymmetric hems.

“My approach to building a wardrobe is the feel of empowerment. The atelier respects the tradition of classic tailoring but at the same time experiments with these time-honoured techniques. We focus on the unexpected edge through deconstructed elements while perfecting the construction and fit of the garments through research, draping, innovation and in-house pattern making,” says Meulendijks.

New York-based labels Peter Do and Khaite have also become popular thanks to their impeccable cuts and high-quality fabrics. The latter was founded by Catherine Holstein, who has said that her vision was to create a wardrobe of foundational pieces such as silk blouses, tailored leather and draped dresses in modern, unexpected shapes with couture-inspired details such as draping and fringing. The brand also offers everyday denim and accessories, which still feel luxe but are meant to be used daily.

Fellow New Yorker Lauren Manoogian has built a strong following thanks to her unique knitwear such as slouchy belted cardigans, hand-loomed crochet dresses and alpaca blend hoodies – bestselling styles that she repurposes season after season.