Style Edit: Chanel’s 2024-25 cruise collection marries the maison’s iconic tweed fabric with the carefree spirit of French port cities, from Marseille to Deauville

Oct 21 , 2024

Chanel’s 2024-25 Cruise collection marries the maison’s iconic tweed fabric with the carefree spirit of French seaside resorts, from Marseille to Deauville. Photos: Handout

Classic Chanel tweed elevates seaside looks, while playful hues, intricate embroidery and a touch of menswear inspo come together in a versatile holiday wardrobe for adventurous travellers

Often gravitating towards warmer climes in the winter and searching for a sea breeze during the summer months, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel saw the demand for comfortable designs suited for recreational activities on yachts and beaches, or for simply lazing around in spa towns.

The relaxed styles that Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (right) created for women in the early 20th century reinforced the relative emancipation of the times

Beginning in 1919, twice a year – in October and again in March – collections focused on relaxation and comfort were launched between regular seasons. It wasn’t until 1933 that Coco’s holiday collections were dubbed “cruise clothes” in Harper’s Bazaar magazine.

Inspired by the easy style of port cities like Marseille and Deauville, the cruise collection pioneered occasion dressing that extended well beyond ballrooms and galas.

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (left) in cruise mode: the relaxed ’fits she created last century are echoed in today’s cruise collection

In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld reimagined the cruise concept, presenting the collection in May ahead of the autumn season. While geared towards blending with the charm of the French seaside, with its stripes and boat-neck silhouettes, the collection has become a symbol of relaxed elegance.

As Chanel’s clientele has grown over time, the collection’s adventurous spirit has found inspiration beyond France’s seaside resorts.

A skirt suit from Chanel’s 2024-25 Cruise collection

In the 2024-25 cruise collection, the carefree spirit of Marseille is reflected in a line-up of looks anchored by the maison’s most iconic tweed jacket. The collection goes on a deep-sea adventure in shades of aniseed green and pastels, capturing the playful sentiments of travel with dresses, T-shirts, vest tops and blouses. Embroidery and sequins embellish the designs.

Chanel’s latest Cruise collection draws on the maison’s signature tweed fabric

The womenswear collection pays tribute to menswear with a number of black and white pieces, including a shouldered peacoat and patent shoes. Add to that a little black dress with a bustier jersey; these pieces build a versatile holiday wardrobe for adventures on the road.