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London Fashion Week 2024: from Burberry and JW Anderson to Simone Rocha, Erdem and Molly Goddard, the city’s creativity was on full display as the event celebrated its 40th birthday

The Burberry autumn/winter 2024 show took place in Victoria Park, London, during the city’s fashion week. Photo: AP
The Burberry autumn/winter 2024 show took place in Victoria Park, London, during the city’s fashion week. Photo: AP

  • Stand-out autumn/winter collections included those of JW Anderson founder Jonathan Anderson, Burberry and the Maria Callas-inspired creations of British-Turkish designer Erdem Moralıoğlu
  • Meanwhile, Molly Goddard paid homage to the couture shapes of 1960s Cristóbal Balenciaga and Christian Dior gowns, and Simone Rocha’s gorgeous yet morbid show took place in a church crypt

It was a busy few days in London as Hollywood A-listers and fashion insiders descended upon the city this week: the former to attend the Baftas (British Academy Film Awards), and the latter to take part in shows and presentations as part of London Fashion Week.

The fashion posse had a lot to celebrate as this year marks the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week. “We are looking back at 40 years of creativity and all this emerging talent rising through – their stories, their voices – and it’s as much as looking back as looking forward,” said Caroline Rush, CEO of the British Fashion Council, in a chat at one of the shows, adding that the autumn/winter 2024 season will kick-start a series of year-long activations.

The couture-like creations of British designer Richard Quinn at his autumn/winter 2024 show during London Fashion Week. Photo: AFP
The couture-like creations of British designer Richard Quinn at his autumn/winter 2024 show during London Fashion Week. Photo: AFP
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Creativity is certainly the word that comes to mind at London Fashion Week. The diversity and global outlook of the designers showing in London are pretty much unparalleled: from someone quintessentially British like Richard Quinn, who held an intimate show that harked back to the golden age of haute couture, to rising creators hailing from Asia, the Middle East and beyond who proudly call London home, such as New Zealand-born Emilia Wickstead, known for her female-friendly clothes.

“I feel that London is still the global city in spite of us leaving the EU, which makes us very sorry,” says Rush. “It is incredibly diverse and the best place to start a new brand. And because of colleges attracting international students, that talent stays in London and there’s a great ecosystem to develop.

“I think it’s been 30 years that we’ve supported emerging talent, and it’s great to see those designers who started in London and are now creative directors [of luxury brands] like Kim Jones, Stuart Vevers, Jonathan Anderson, who still shows at London Fashion Week.”

A jumper paired with an embellished skirt at Emilia Wickstead’s autumn/winter 2024 show. Photo: Emilia Wickstead
A jumper paired with an embellished skirt at Emilia Wickstead’s autumn/winter 2024 show. Photo: Emilia Wickstead

Here are five shows that caught our eye.

Erdem

The Erdem autumn/winter 2024 collection during London Fashion Week in London was inspired by the late opera singer Maria Callas. Photo: AFP
The Erdem autumn/winter 2024 collection during London Fashion Week in London was inspired by the late opera singer Maria Callas. Photo: AFP