JW Anderson uses darkness to lead Loewe to the light at Paris Fashion Week

Loewe’s autumn-winter 17 show setup was so dark that organisers deployed flashlights to help attendees find their seats. Only rare, exotic orchids stole the spotlight, dotting the otherwise entirely blackened venue before the show. As it turned out, the temporary visual deprivation was foreplay for a feast for the eyes.

Creative director JW Anderson later explained that the darkness symbolised the uncertainties the Loewe heroine faced after the past few seasons. The show notes elaborated: “The dislocating void of setting hints at the uncertain state… Where will she go next? How does she survive?” 

For many Loewe lovers, who are independent and sophisticated, it’s a familiar state of mind. 

Anderson gave his answer to the dilemma with a collection that flaunts his signature contrasting and collaging style. 

Different textures, forms and shades collided: a striped silk column dress traced with chantilly lace; a cable-knit skirt obscured by layers of wool and silk pleats; a shiny black napa contrasted with matte black suede. 

There are also the subtly luxurious elements that demonstrate Anderson’s take on the Spanish maison’s heritage and craftsmanship. Column dresses feature leather collars and cuffs with artful gold engraving methods inspired by book binding, for example.