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Catharine Nicol

Causeway Bay has always had a bewildering number of eateries, from tiny street-side stalls to some of Hong Kong's most prestigious restaurants hidden on high floors or in malls. Consumption at long-established Times Square goes beyond retail, as mall eating continues to evolve. Meanwhile, the newer Soundwill Plaza II, featuring full-floor restaurants with spectacular views, is providing some delicious competition.
 
1  Penthouse by Harlan Goldstein
	30/F, Soundwill Plaza II Midtown, www.penthouse-dining.com
As the lift opens at the 30th floor, the stupendous Victoria Harbour view is framed by the restaurant's name in showbiz-style lights. This is fine dining with a difference - high-quality ingredients cooked beautifully within a deceptively relaxed, casual interior with private dining and an alfresco bar. Western comfort food, with influences from Spain and Italy, gets an upgrade here.

The salmon carpaccio is served in juicy chunks in a salad of olives, cucumber and tomato, while the beef carpaccio roll with rocket, stracchino cheese and truffle tastes rich. The hanger steak is beautifully charred on the outside and tender inside.
There's also an array of pasta dishes, plus squid ink paella. Precede your meal with cocktails, such as the bourbon-based Wall Street or the summer-fresh Fifth Avenue Rush with gin, elderflower, kaffir lime, jasmine and blossom soda. Try to leave space for dessert.

2  Sushi To by Harlan Goldstein
	29/F, Soundwill Plaza II Midtown, www.sushito-dining.com
One floor below Penthouse, expect the same amazing harbour views at this Japanese restaurant. Push through a curtain to the sake, sushi and teppanyaki bars, followed by the dining area.
Chef Norihisa Maeda's approach marries the traditional with the modern. Order the omakase set dinner for the full experience. Or try Goldstein's adventurous Funky Maki Roll menu featuring a combination of porcini and shiitake mushrooms with crispy tempura flakes and white truffle mayonnaise, and the nigiri sushi of seared salmon with grain-mustard mayo and caviar.

3  BLT Burger
	Shop 224A, Times Square, www.diningconcepts.com/blt_burger
The casual, rustic American bistro feel of chef Laurent Tourondel's eatery is hard to miss. The burgers are nicely affordable whether you go for the regular patty or Australian wagyu beef. The signature BLT has earned fans with its combination of double-smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato and burger sauce on a certified black angus beef patty. There are also burgers with salmon, chicken, turkey and falafel. Starters include favourites such as barbecue nachos and chilli bowl chicken wings, and sides such as chilli cheese fries are must-haves. The milkshakes are deliciously rich and filling, and best as a dessert, especially when spiked with Kahlua or vanilla vodka.

4  School Food
	13/F, Times Square, www.schoolfood.hk
Young Hongkongers' love of all things Korean keeps School Food busy, as it takes a K-pop approach to cuisine. Renowned for their mix of Korean and Western ingredients and presentations, the popular Korean chain's local outlet features signature dishes such as mari rolls with beetroot and crab made with pink-tinted rice, or more standard ingredients like squid and spam. And rice cake and rice noodle street food has been reinvented as carbonara topokki, cooked with a bacon, mushroom and cream sauce, while their street topokki is a challenge of fiery flavours for chilli fans. There is bibimbap, of course.
	Jugs of near-luminous drinks come in fruity flavours, or try the Korean Max beer.

5 Yun Yan
	10/F, Times Square, www.yunyan.hk
An old Tsim Sha Tsui favourite has been reinvented as a contemporary restaurant in brick, bamboo and wood with an appetiser bar. To start, chef Kenny Chan's cold and shake menu mixes Sichuan appetisers and cold noodle dishes with spices in cocktail shakers. Beaten baby cucumber and chilled noodles with garlic pork belly are favourites. Tofu is their speciality, with the eight-flavour tofu showcasing the tastes of Sichuan. Don't miss the translucent beef slices with a hint of numbing mala chilli. Mains such as black chicken and the Sichuan smoked cherry duckling are recommended, while the drunken chilli chocolate ice cream has the perfect balance of flavours to calm the palate.
 
6  Ladurée
	3/F, Times Square, www.laduree.com
This tea room manages to create a Parisian feel while overlooking the crowded central area of Times Square. Exotic teas are served in a classic silver teapot and presented like wines, with information on the tea leaves and flavours. Try a cup of Marie Antoinette, which has a clean, gentle flavour of Chinese and Indian black teas with hints of rose, citrus and honey. While the madeleines, financiers and cake slices are tempting, the candy-coloured selection of macarons are irresistable. Choices include salty caramel, raspberry and other typical flavours, while the Marie Antoinette is a turquoise-coloured treat that tastes of subtle citrus and rose without being too sweet.
 
7 Kaya Korean
	9/F, Soundwill Plaza II Midtown, www.midtown.com.hk
Around the corner from its previous spot on Russell Street, Kaya Korean now offers mesmerising views of the harbour and city. Lunch specials include bulgogi, with beef strips, onion and mushrooms served with sticky rice and banchan, or small appetiser dishes. The kimchi is a great combination of tangy and spicy, with the marinated tofu and sweet potato contrasting in flavour and texture.
Also recommended is the soondubu jjigae (bean curd and seafood soup) and bibimbap. À la carte dining in the evening revolves around tables of four or six tucking into Korean barbecue, with the high-quality beef plus authentic noodles and spices.

Click on the image above to enlarge
 
 


Causeway Bay restaurants pair innovative menus and impressive views

Catharine Nicol