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The Korea Times

By Kang Hyun-kyung
In the 1980s, Kim Bo-sub used to spend time with local artists in Incheon’s Chinatown, in the South Korean city’s eastern coastal Jung district. The area was a trendy spot for painters and photographers like him, drawn to its unique and exotic atmosphere.
“I was told that the Chinatown area was dark and desolate at the time, with once-thriving Chinese restaurants and hotels either closed or abandoned,” Kim said. “But that bleakness didn’t bother me at all because the rich aromas of Chinese cuisine still filled the air.”
An Incheon native, Kim expressed his fascination with the Chinese character of the area.
“There lived an undertaker who owned a funeral home. Nearby were a mahjong house and old Chinese-style buildings, distinct in structure from traditional Korean houses. I heard that in the 1980s, as many as 10 households lived there together,” he said.

Kim wandered through this “Little China” from time to time to explore the Chinese way of life.
His bond with the Chinese immigrants began in the mid-1980s when he met a Chinese woman who asked him for a favour: to take portrait photos of her mother for her birthday. He accepted the offer immediately.
Ushered by her, Kim visited the elderly Chinese woman’s home, took her photos, and presented them to the family.
Years later, he returned to the area with the woman’s photos, only to discover that the elderly lady had moved to another part of Incheon. At the time, he was dedicated to a photo project about the Chinese community in Korea.
He eventually reunited with the woman, thanks to a former neighbour who recognised her in the photos and informed him of her new address.
During the reunion, Kim noticed the old lady’s deformed feet, a result of decades of foot binding – a Chinese custom that involved breaking and binding young girls’ feet to alter their shape and size.
This practice lasted for centuries before being banned in 1912. However, Kim learned that some older Chinese women still lived with bound feet. In 2000, he photographed another woman who had also experienced this painful tradition.

The year 1992 marked a significant shift in the Chinese demographics in Korea, coinciding with the establishment of diplomatic relations between South Korea and China. This change resulted in two distinct groups of Chinese residents: those who immigrated before 1992 and those who arrived afterwards.
Kim Dong-ha, a professor of Chinese studies at the Busan University of Foreign Studies, explained that the initial wave of Chinese migrants came to Incheon after the Joseon dynasty signed a treaty with the Qing dynasty in 1882, which facilitated maritime and overland trade between the two sides.
“Approximately 90 per cent of these early Chinese immigrants were from Shandong province, probably because of its proximity to Incheon. They typically arrived by ferry,” he said.
In contrast to the early Chinese immigrants, who were primarily economic migrants and often self-employed in Chinese restaurants or shops, the Chinese who arrived in South Korea after 1992 tended to stay for shorter periods.
Many come for educational opportunities or as guest workers. A significant number of ethnic Koreans from China are employed in the service or manufacturing sectors.

The early Chinese immigrants sparked a boom in Chinese cuisine in Korea.
“It is no surprise that the Chinese food Koreans currently enjoy is Shandong cuisine, as the early migrants hailed from that region,” Kim said.
The descendants of early Chinese immigrants have worked hard to preserve their Chinese lifestyles, celebrating Lunar New Year and other important annual events. However, Kim noted that the Chinese culture and traditions they practise in Korea are somewhat different from the original ones.
His deep interest in Chinese culture led him to join a trip to Penglai, Shandong province, in 1995 with a Chinese acquaintance to visit relatives for Lunar New Year.
“It was a remote rural area, and the people there were very nice and warm. On my first day, I was treated to dumplings,” he said.
“In the village, I was the only person with a camera. After getting their approval, I photographed them. Interestingly, none of them were shy. They posed proudly without hesitation. I felt at home. It was the most memorable trip I have had so far.”

His trip to Shandong province was educational, as it gave him a perspective to compare authentic Chinese culture and customs with those observed by Chinese immigrants in Korea.
Some of the early migrants in Incheon’s Chinatown amassed considerable wealth as their Chinese restaurant businesses flourished, especially during the 1930s when Korea was under Japanese rule.
News of delectable Chinese cuisine spread nationwide, prompting Koreans from Seoul and other cities to travel to Incheon for a meal.
Among these establishments, Gonghwachun gained immense popularity after its jjajangmyeon, a localised Chinese noodle dish based on zhajiangmian that is topped with a caramel-flavoured black bean sauce and sliced onions, became widely celebrated.

However, the prosperous business in Chinatown started to decline after the Korean war (1950-53) when the government introduced regulations limiting foreign ownership of businesses and property.
The decline of Chinatown ensued, with Chinese restaurants and shops shutting down one after another as owners struggled to sustain their businesses amid mounting financial losses. Many left the area to establish themselves in other parts of the port city.
Notably, the closure of Gonghwachun in 1983 marked a significant event that symbolised the downfall of Incheon’s Chinatown. The restaurant has remained abandoned for three decades.
Kim documented the deserted Chinese restaurant, capturing the dusty chairs left inside and the desolate landscape of the neighbourhood to illustrate the rise and fall of the Chinatown district.

He photographed Chinese immigrants, the schools they established for their children and grandchildren, and the churches they attended, tracing the footsteps of the early Chinese migrants. His 40 years of photographic projects have recently culminated in a photo book titled Chinese in Korea, published by Noonbit Publishing.
Kim’s photo book illustrates what Chinatown in Incheon was like before it underwent a major transformation.
“The area recently underwent a facelift as the city authorities renovated the neighbourhood to attract tourists. However, this urban beautification project has come at the expense of Chinatown’s identity,” he said.
“The current neighbourhood reflects a version of China perceived by Koreans, rather than an authentic representation of China, which is quite regrettable.”
Read the original story at The Korea Times.


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Food and Drinks

A bowl of jjajangmyeon.

The Jjajangmyeon Museum, in Incheon’s Jung district, is fronted by old signboards from Gonghwachun, a restaurant in the city’s Chinatown that flourished in the early 20th century thanks to dishes like jjajangmyeon, a localised Chinese noodle dish based on zhajiangmian. Photo: Park Chan-kyong

A Chinese chef (front) poses with assistants in this 1994 photo taken by Kim Bo-sub in Incheon’s Chinatown. Photo: Noonbit Publishing

A Chinese woman’s foot is deformed due to a lifetime of binding. Photo: Noonbit Publishing

An undated photo of an old Chinese lady with her granddaughter in Incheon’s Chinatown. Photo: Noonbit Publishing

A Chinese couple captured by Kim Bo-sub. Photo: Noonbit Publishing

A bowl of jjajangmyeon. Photo: Instagram/wranglerme

Dusty chairs sit inside the abandoned Gonghwachun. Photo: Noonbit Publishing

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Netflix show Culinary Class Wars has injected new life into Korea’s food and beverage scene. Photo: Netflix

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Booz dumplings are a popular Mongolian dish. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung

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A typical Mongolian ger, or traditional dwelling. Photo: Genghis Khan Retreat

Boortsog are deep-fried dough balls that are eaten with jam, berries and clotted cream. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung

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L’Atelier Par Yao, in Taichung, Taiwan, known for its fine French cuisine, was awarded a Michelin star in 2024. It is an example of the recognition being given to fine dining in Asia that puts it on par with Europe. Photo: L’Atelier Par Yao

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Wheat noodles originate in Northern China, while rice noodles have Southern Chinese origins, says Dr Siu Yan-ho, a lecturer in Chinese language and literature at Baptist University. 

Marco Li Ka-chi of Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodle balancing on a bamboo pole to make noodles. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung

Shrimp roe thick noodle lo mien at Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodle. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung

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Roast goose with lai fun rice noodles. The thicker, neutral-tasting noodles are perfect for absorbing the flavours from the roast goose and broth. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung

Lifestyle

Food & Drink

Immigrants from China’s Shandong province to Incheon sparked a boom in Chinese cuisine in Korea, resulting in dishes like jjajangmyeon


Immigrants from China’s Shandong province to Incheon sparked a boom in Chinese cuisine in Korea, resulting in dishes like jjajangmyeon.
