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The history of xiaolongbao, or soup dumplings: from the outskirts of Shanghai to popular snack loved all over the world

  • Although no one knows for sure who came up with the original dumpling, it’s claimed that it originated in a country town on the outskirts of Shanghai
  • Taiwanese restaurant chain Din Tai Fung is credited for popularising xiaolongbao globally; ‘obsessive with detail’, its dumplings all weigh 21g before steaming

Reading Time:6 minutes
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Xiaolongbao from Old Bailey restaurant at Tai Kwun, Hong Kong. Photo: Nora Tam

With nimble fingers, dim sum chef Leung Kwok-wa places a freshly rolled dumpling wrapper in his palm, scoops a spoonful of pork filling into the centre and – as if by magic – encases the bulging filling by pinching, pleating and rotating the dough at lightning speed.

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Within seconds, the chef, from Hong Kong’s Dim Sum Library, holds in his hand a perfect xiaolongbao, also known as a soup dumpling in the West.
Xiaolongbao are delicate parcels served piping hot in a small bamboo steamer. Within a wheat flour wrapper is a portion of fatty minced pork that, when steamed, releases a fragrant soup that pools within the dumpling, ready to explode in the mouth when bitten into.
These delicious dumplings – which have been known to scald the mouths of many soup dumpling newbies – are originally from the Jiangnan region of eastern China, but have found global fame over the past two decades thanks to restaurant chain Din Tai Fung.

While hungry diners can easily demolish a basket full of these dainty delights, learning to make them is another story.

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Even though we watch Leung wrap them with intent, we struggle to follow. Our attempts end up looking like sad, flattened mini mooncakes with a swirl on top, instead of the proud, golf-ball-sized dumplings with 23 pleats that the master creates.

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