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Opinion | Happy Hong Kong? Look to wonton soup for the soul and small businesses
- Organising a series of food fairs is a good starting point but insufficient to make up for all Hong Kong has lost over the past three years
- The city’s happiness lies not in hosting large-scale international events but in everyday businesses, especially street food outlets
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In his latest budget, Financial Secretary Paul Chan Mo-po announced a “Happy Hong Kong” campaign aimed at local residents, which will offer the public “gourmet experiences, fun amusements and exciting ambience” after three years of strict anti-pandemic measures.
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With the end of the mask mandate, Hong Kong has finally largely returned to normal as many countries have done in the past year. Chan’s budget is an attempt to raise people’s spirits, but the resulting good cheer may only be an illusion. The Covid-19 pandemic has left much long-term damage that the government needs to help repair.
The government plans to launch a “gourmet marketplace” with food fairs in various districts. The intent behind the plan is admirable, but the pandemic had far more impact on Hong Kong’s food scene than a series of food fairs can fix.
Before the easing of pandemic restrictions last year, an estimated 8,000 restaurants faced the prospect of closing as a government-backed payment deferral scheme ended. With all major pandemic-related measures lifted now and visitors starting to return, restaurants and related businesses are expected to recover.
Even so, Hong Kong has already lost many well-loved businesses. The Ale Project, a bar focused on selling local craft beer, closed its Tsuen Wan location last August. Tai Wing Wah, a local restaurant serving “walled village cuisine”, shut its Wan Chai location the same month.
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There is little doubt the ageing of business owners has contributed to restaurant closures. However, the financial pressure of keeping these businesses going in the face of strict pandemic controls and a lack of government support only worsened their situation.
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